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The Survival Manual for Puppies and their Owners

Answers to Questions:

Answers to Questions:- I hope these answers help some of you.  If you want ideas about how to solve other doggie related problems, I am glad to offer advice. ~Sydne

•  How old is too old to crate train? 

I have never found a dog too old to crate train.  I crate trained every Great Dane that came into my rescue. I have actually found that older dogs take to the crate better than many puppies.

• My dog cries all the time in his crate, what can I do about it? 

For young puppies, I use a trick my mother used  when I get puppies and am training them to the crate.  (My mother was not a dog lover... go figure???)  She made sure the puppy (We lived in the country and I brought home foundlings on occasion) was warm and comfy in the crate (in our case, a laundry basket), then she wound up an old fashioned alarm clock that ticked real loud, wrapped it in an old towel and tucked it in with the puppy.  She claimed it reminded the puppy of its mother's heartbeat.  It seemed to work and I have done it many times since. 

It is normal for any dog to whine or bark for a while when you first start crating him.  Sometimes you luck up and find one that doesn't; but it isn't the norm.  First try ignoring it.  See if he stops after a couple of hours. If it is driving you nuts, leave the house or use earplugs.  The important thing is to see if the dog will adjust without any interference.  Usually they do.

If that doesn't work it is time to resort to actively modifying the dog's behavior.  That will require work on your end.  

- my first suggestion is to employ the reward system by taking advantage of every lapse in the barking/whining. At the beginning, every couple-minute-stretch of quiet should be rewarded by a treat or release to play. Quickly let the dog out and put him outside for a few minutes in case the pup needs to relieve itself then play with the pup for a few minutes before putting it back up. Remember to give a treat every time you put the dog in the crate. Never let the dog out or give it a treat while it is acting up.  As the dog barks less and behaves more, stretch out the time you let him be good prior to letting him out.  It is important not to reward the barking and whining, only the good behavior.  Most dogs adapt quickly (within a couple of days). Some don't.

If your dog is not responding to the positive reward behavior modification, you can try negative reaction behavior modification (that's what his mother did when he and his litter mates acted up).  

I have done this successfully with the older rescues that I had to get crate trained quickly: 

Put a training collar and long lead on the dog.  Put the dog in the crate, say "BED", give the treat, close the crate with the long lead hanging out of the crate. Take the end of the leash and go somewhere the dog will not see you.  When the noise commences, jerk the lead very quickly. Make certain to release the lead just as quickly, you aren't trying to strangle him, just surprise him. Most of the time, the surprise will shut the dog up.  Maybe only for a minute, but that is a good start.  The dog will not connect you with the correction.  At first he also won't connect the barking with the correction either most likely, but be consistent and jerk the lead EVERY TIME he starts to bark.  That doesn't mean wait until he has been barking ten minutes to jerk; it means the sound comes out the dogs mouth and the dog finds himself yanked from an unseen source almost instantaneously.  When the dog starts staying quiet ten or fifteen minutes at a time, you can switch to using a combination of the positive and negative reinforcement methods.  I had to use this method on a Black and Tan Coonhound, talk about stubborn! He tested the limits of my imagination in every training endeavor. If something worked for him, it will work for any dog! I am willing to bet you can crate train that dog you thought was a lost cause in a day or two.

•  My dog tears up the bedding in his crate. How do I stop it?

I wonder why the dog feels compelled to do this? Make sure he has a couple of favorite chew toys available.  Puppies, in particular have to chew.  Give him an alternative to using the bedding as a chew toy.  Also, be sure you aren't just leaving him in the crate too long and he is bored and frustrated and taking it out on the bedding.

If the above suggestions don't seem to have an impact, my personal preference would be to remove the bedding.  If you have an airline crate it has a smooth bottom and sides. There is no need for bedding.  If you have a wire crate, use the pan that comes with the crate.  It is smooth and you won't have a need for bedding, None of my dogs have now or ever have had bedding in their crate except when they were pups and needed it for warmth and emotional comfort.

If there is a good reason to use bedding, like the dog is getting sores from the crate you are using, consider not using the crate so much, for starters.  But some dogs do have really sensitive skin and need padding.  For those dogs, do two things, 1) buy or make a cover for the bedding of a very strong material...heavy denim, ripstop nylon, or something similar, and 2) saturate the cover with a product called "Bitter Apple" "Bitter Orange" or "Bitter Yuck".  Those are non-toxic training aids that taste bad (I can assure you they taste awful).  That should discourage the dog from tearing at the bedding.  

•  I am trying to house break my dog and I have heard that crate training is the best way to do this. How do I go about it?

Crate training is the easiest way I know to housebreak a dog.  The whole idea is that until the dog has learned that he only does his business outside, his life away from you is in the crate.

The only time the dog is out of the crate is when you are physically right there with him.  Watch for signs the dog needs to use the potty.  The signs include, sniffing around the floor and corners, trying to sneak away and hide from you, and whimpering.  You may notice other behaviors that you will begin to associate with your particular dog needing to go out.  If your puppy plays a lot, watch for him/her to suddenly become still or quiet or appear confused.  That's a sign. Immediately take him outside.  Don't be surprised if he "forgets" that he needed to go out.  OK, let him back in, but either put him in the crate and repeat the trip outside about every 10 minutes, or keep him with you and don't take your eyes off him.  

Timing is everything with housebreaking with a crate.  Every time you take him out of the crate make sure the first destination is out the door! 

Just to make life easier for you, try to impose a schedule on the puppy.  Take him out of the crate at about the same time every morning, and again at all the same times every day.  Don't let the dog have water after 7pm to prevent the dog having to urinate in the middle of the night.  Just like a child, put your dog to bed at the same time every night.  The dog will get the idea very soon.  You will be surprised how your dog becomes a creature of habit, only needing to go out at the times you scheduled and sleeping through the night.

My method of crate training

I have had several inquiries lately about crate training:

•  How old is too old to crate train? 
• My dog cries all the time in his crate, what can I do about it? 
•  My dog tears up the bedding in his crate. How do I stop it?
•  I am trying to house break my dog and I have heard that crate training is the best way to do this. How do I go about it?

First let me tell you my method of crate training.  (I will address all those questions in the next posts.)

   I start crating any dog that is new to my household, regardless of whether the dog is housebroken or not.  I just think they should have a place that is uniquely theirs.

   First make sure the crate is sized correctly.  It should be about as long as the dog's body and head, not including the tail plus a couple of inches.  It should be at least as tall as the dog's shoulder. The width will depend on the length and will be fine, whatever it is.  The dog doesn't need a lot of space, this isn't a place for it to get exercise.  The dog should spend most of its time in the crate sleeping and watching whatever is happening around it.  Put the crate where there isn't going to much going on....an extra bedroom or the laundry room is better than the living room, however when the dog is comfortable in his crate you can move the crate to the living room if you would like.   This lack of stimulation actually is calming to the dog, and you want a calm atmosphere when introducing him to crating.

   When I want to crate a new dog, I lead him to the crate, toss his favorite toy into the crate, say "BED" in a firm but kind voice and scoop the dog in behind his toy. I generally have to race to get the door shut before the dog catches on and tries to escape. I always follow up by saying "Good Dog" in a much higher pitched voice so the dog knows I am happy.  Then I give the dog a treat through the grates in the door.  I prefer to use the plastic airline type crate most of the time, but the wire crates work, too. I have had equal success with both.

   Dogs often whine or bark when they first start being crated.  That does not mean there is anything wrong with the dog or with crating him.  It means the dog wants attention, that's all.  Be patient.  Buy a set of earplugs if you have a soft heart and just can't stand hearing it.  It is a phase that will pass, I promise, unless you go in while the whining and barking is going on and let the dog out of the crate.  Getting the dog in the crate is a step forward, letting him out because he pitches a fit is two steps back.  Just wait until he stops, even if you think he is just taking a breather.  That is when you let him out...when he is being quiet.  Now the tricky part is getting to the crate and opening the door before the ruckus starts back up.  If it is obvious he is just happy to see you, go ahead and let him out.  Otherwise, leave until the next quiet patch.

   I suggest you do your initial crate sessions during the day.  The first day crate for half an our to two hours 4 or 5 times a day, that way when bedtime comes, it is not a new experience to the dog.  Be sure to leave him in the dark so he will learn to sleep in the crate at night if that is what you plan for him to do.  Also be sure to take all his water sources away early in the evening so he doesn't have the chance to "tank up" before being put to bed.  It will make it much easier for both of you to sleep through the night.  If he starts carrying on in the night, after being asleep for a good while, its a sure bet he needs to go out.  Don't ignore him in this case, but take (or let) him out to relieve himself.  Afterwards, put him back in his crate (don't forget the treat) for the rest of the night. Another bonus to starting crate training early in the day is that if the dog is going to be one of those that just barks to beat the band because he is in a crate for the first few days, he will be hoarse by nighttime and won't have nearly the voice he had in the morning.  Most dogs bark at first, and most of those figure out very quickly that it doesn't get them anywhere and stop pretty soon.  There are a few that take several days to catch on.  Be strong, this too shall pass. 

   I always give my dogs the opportunity to go outside immediately after I release them from their crates.  They are old enough to go for a very long time between potty breaks, but just in case I make sure they don't have to hold it any longer than necessary.  They seem to appreciate it.

   Having a crate trained dog will be worth the effort you put into it many times over.  My Caesar heads to his crate every morning when I turn the TV off in my bedroom before I go to work.  He is always waiting for me in his crate with the door wide open when I finally finish brushing my teeth and hair and make my way to his room to give him his treat and close the crate door for him.  If he had fingers, I am sure he would do this for himself.  He is a wonderful dog.

In the next post I will answer those questions at the beginning of this post, and if you have questions about crate training, just ask me in the comments.  I promise to answer.

The Survival Manual for Puppies and Their Owners

Large Wisdom in a small book.  I intended for this book to be accessible to anyone, but especially the harried new puppy owner who doesn't have all week to read a book.  This book contains the essence of making your puppy into your perfect pet.  Where else can you get this much information in an hour and for only $5.50?

the Survival Manual for Puppies and Their Owners

We are getting closer to publication!!!!

The book is currently being reviewed by the printer.  It won't be long now.  Soon it will be available through Amazon .com in the US and Europe, also through my website, this blog, and my FaceBook Pages.  Other outlets to come.....

My Neighbor's Dogs Chase My Car!

Do you have this problem????

If so, I will teach you to how to put an end to it.  Our neighbor has four...count them... FOUR German Shepherds that run loose.  That isn't quite as bad as it sounds, we live far, far from civilization and the dogs are a good 600 yards from a real road.  Unfortunately, the drive to my house and several of my other neighbors' homes cuts right through that neighbor's yard.  I understand completely why the dogs chase the cars going up and down the drive.. Two Reasons: 1) They are protecting "their" property, and 2) The cars are moving.

Those two reasons are plenty for a dog.  I know the owners try to discourage the chasing, but they aren't successful.  In fact, right now one of the dogs has a leg in a cast :-(.

I am just very glad it wasn't me or my husband who hit the dog.  They don't chase my car.  My husband noticed that a while ago and has started using my method to train them to ignore his, too.

Remember I said they had two reasons? They protect the property they feel is theirs.  That is something I wouldn't even want to stop.  They should be protective of their home. They are not aggressive, so  as long as the car stays on the road, they shouldn't have a real problem with that.  I have made it a priority to stop and speak with the neighbors while I was in the car so the dogs will get the idea that the car is not a threat.  Their owners are not afraid, or angry while speaking to me, in fact, we are on very good terms.  That helps eliminate the "protection" issue.  

The second reason is the one that most people don't understand how to eliminate.  Dogs Love To Chase things that MOVE!  It is a sport.  It's fun! (at least until one gets clipped by a bumper or hit while doing that "hey, let me run across the street in front of your car and chase from the other side!" maneuver). By the way, getting hit by a car only stops the chasing if the dog dies. They don't connect getting hit with having been chasing. How many times have they chased? Hundreds.  How many times were they hit? Once.  Nothing to connect.  Now, if they got hit every time.....that would make an impression on them.

It is really very simple.  Just stop.

That's right. Stop your car. Wait. It is no fun to chase a car that won't move. 

It takes a little bit of patience on your part.  In fact, you may have to repeat this exercise for a couple of weeks for some dogs.  But it works.  You stop when the dog moves toward the car.  You can open the window and say "NO", but it really isn't necessary.  Slowly take your foot off the brake and start moving again while watching the dog. The second he starts to move toward you again, stop immediately.  You will probably just creep by the  property the first time, stopping and starting, over and over.  But eventually, you will notice the dog starts losing interest in you.  After a week or so, the dog will recognize your car and stop even trying to chase you.  Unfortunately, this is a selective lesson.  They do recognize the car, and if you change cars, you have to re-train, but it is easier after the first time.  The dog kind of gets the idea that cars that won't let him run, just aren't any fun.

Try it.

That's right folks, If we can't RUN, It's no FUN ~Abby

Getting Closer to Publication

Good Hollow Press is getting closer to releasing my book The Survival Manual for Puppies and Their Owners.  With luck it will be available within the next couple of  weeks.  I'll keep you updated.